Not really, it makes sense to give a max current. If a car’s top speed is listed as 200 km per hour, it does not mean that it goes this fast continuously.
Really? I have a camera that is rated “3.7 V, 2 A” but only draws that amount from the battery when the flash capacitor is recharging. Yes, the normal current draw would be more helpful, and in case of a watch, the standby current.
This may be the charging current but it would be pretty unusual to pick a value slightly above what legacy USB can deliver (500 mA).
The max rating is important so your powersupply/battery can be sized accordingly. No powersupply can provide a abitrary current at their rated voltage.
Not really, it makes sense to give a max current. If a car’s top speed is listed as 200 km per hour, it does not mean that it goes this fast continuously.
I get this is a battery but the units don’t make sense unless it’s going at 100% all the time
Really? I have a camera that is rated “3.7 V, 2 A” but only draws that amount from the battery when the flash capacitor is recharging. Yes, the normal current draw would be more helpful, and in case of a watch, the standby current.
This may be the charging current but it would be pretty unusual to pick a value slightly above what legacy USB can deliver (500 mA).
The max rating is important so your powersupply/battery can be sized accordingly. No powersupply can provide a abitrary current at their rated voltage.